Italy
April 28/04: Leaving for 28 days of exploration and relaxation. Well, we made it to the airport with Sharen and Richard on time especially for them as their flight was earlier than expected. The connection through Toronto was flawless. Jill had the window seat and I sat beside a computer engineer from Edmonton who was flying to Bucharest to visit family.
April 29/04: Arrived in Frankfurt right on time, beautiful sunny morning. Didn't sleep a wink though. One more leg and we are in Milan looking for Alessia's father with a sign "Croft".
No sign of Sergio at 9:30, finally at 11 he shows up. Yikes, there are two airports in Milan. We find out that Sergio has driven 150 km's this morning through heavy rain and traffic to pick us up. Next time we will confirm arrival point.
Drove back across town to the Cogliatti's home, quite the trip for sure. Man do they drive close and fast. Alessia was home to meet us, had lunch and then a nap. Sergio and I visited the ALFA Romero museum; on the way there we passed the closed manufacturing plant. It covered acres and acres of land. The museum had cars from 1906 to present, what a rich lost history.
Back at the house was an invite to meet Carla and Jill for coffee at the grande caffe, so we walked over. No girls, Sergio and I walked through the village of Arese the town we are visiting, lovely! Back at the house we waited and shortly the girls arrived, they took the same trip only slower.
Hard to believe it was now dinner time, what a treat our first meal with the whole family. Finally, off to bed at 9:30 looking forward to a good sleep.
April 30/04: And, sleep we did woke at 10:30! Good heavens, quick shower, light breakfast and off to the market at the foot of the street. Wonderful sights and smells.
May 1/04: Off to Milan. What an amazing trip, walked from outside the old gates of Milan to the Doumo, through the fashion district, through the galleria and back through the park and home. It was May 1st and the town was full of people, celebrating liberation day. There was a parade protesting the war in Iraq. Carbineri everywhere with full riot gear. Glad to get back to the safe casa.
May 2/04: Sunday, May 2nd big day planned with a drive to Lake Como and Bellagio. Parked the car and walked to down to the lake, then off through an alley up and over the hill to the town. It was a totally charming lakeside village. Full of tourist shops, cafés and people walking up and down the narrow winding lanes. We had a delicious lunch at a sweet café and then off back over the hill to the car. Drove home via Lecco along the narrow waterside route.
Home for snooze, quick dinner and of to La Scalla for a production Falstaff. The setting was grand, the symphony exquisite, and the opera beautifully performed. Jill and I both found the lighting a little dark. Home for a visit, met Mateo briefly then off to bed at 12:30, late for us on a Sunday.
Buon viaggio e permanenza a venezia.
Abbasso Berlusconi.
May 3/04: Monday, Jill and I up for two hour walk & café around Arese, great time. I spent the day reading, Jill was off to aerobics with Carla. We spent the afternoon trying to book tickets online for the train to Venice. No luck so Jill and Carla went to a travel agent and bought them there. Wonderful dinner, scrabble and off to bed.
May 4/04: Tuesday is a travel day going to Venice. Drove to Milan train station with Sergio early which gave us time to look around Milan some more. This was great as we revisited the Doumo, shopping area & stumbled on an archeology museum. The train was on time the view changing and the rain persistent.
Arrived in Milan to breaking skies & headed off to find or monastery. It wasn't where we expected it to be and after receiving directions from two strangers we arrived at our destination. We were shown to our room and we opened the shutters. We were both stunned by the view and we very pleased with our choice.
May 5/04: Unbelievable sleep totally quiet, down for breakie, off on our tour of Venice. Six hours later back in our room for a rest. What did we see? Everything, St. Marks, Rialto Bridge, Academia, and points in between. Amazing city! Caught the no. 1 Vaparazio to the train station, then the 52 to d'Orto our stop. Feels great to put my feet up.
Irene recommended the Ca'da Bepi so we went for dinner. It was great except the waiters were the only Italians, everyone else was English-speaking.
May 6/04: May 6th, after a windy, rainy night we woke up to brilliant sunshine at 9:15! Ran downstairs quick breakfast & out to enjoy the day. Caught vapporelli no. 42 to Maruno the island of Venetian glass. It was perfect bumber, not many people, great scenery, and lunch on the quay. Back to Venice, and then spent the rest of the day in Cannerigio, delightful. Had the best slow food dinner at Anice Stellato, home at 10:30. Jill & I were both restless reflecting about our great day and anticipating more to come.
May 7/04: May 7th off to Sienna today by train via Florence. Decided to get some more Euro's as I had used mine up paying the B&B bill. No Visa card left it at the restaurant last night. Short walk, short wait, and then the owner showed up. It was in the till, gracie, gracie! Off to the train with time for cappuccino. Need some cash, but no money in account, what happened to the deposits?
Uneventful trip to Siena got off the train & it was pouring, lightning and thunder, made it to town by bus & walked to the hotel. No reservation must stay two nights we are told! Lucky for us a Nun showed up, we have a room for you for one night in the annex for 60E would that be suitable. Yes, what a gorgeous room with a view of the bell tower. Headed out to find internet to check bank, sure enough no money, so transfer from savings. Wrote Sharen an email.
What to do for dinner, ask the manager, go to San Giuseppe, started walking & the skies opened. Headed back to small local cantina. Great reception, terrific local food, and 100m from our room.
May 8/04: Well the Siena adventure had just begun. Let's get the car! Three hours later we have left the car at Eurocar and returned to Siena for Domuo tour walk-about and lunch San G. Caught local bus to pick up car and off to Il Poggio.
Arrived at 7, given the tour of our great timeshare accommodation, invited for wine and cheese turned into dinner and off to bed by 11.
May 9/04: Woke to major fog, so we decided to wait for it to burn off. I made breakfast and then on the road. We started north and stopped at a castle that we can see from one of windows, Radoficina. Of course it was medieval and earlier with dates as early as 78 BC. It was on the Roman road north. This was a great start for our day as we were heading to Moltincino home of Brunello wines. Jill took us around the base of Mt. Amatia, a very interesting route on the way we visited the Abbey of St. Antimo and heard the monks chanting. This was a big day, great vistas, great towns and lots of history.
May 10/04: On Monday we tried to do a local walk of about 9km. We were blocked by the flooding on the Rigo River. It was worth the try, had breakfast at the resort, slept and visited San Casciano at the end of the day. Jill made an outstanding dinner made from local produce we purchased at Cel de Rigo.
May 11/04: Tuesday the 11th off on a circuitous journey of Pienza, Moltipoliciano, Chianchiano Terme and Sarteano, all medieval towns and dating even earlier to Estruchan and later Roman inhabitation. I think my favorite of these was Pienza which had a certain quality about it had been remodeled by a Pope.
May 12/04: May 12 woke to grey skies and rain. Hung around till 11 and went grocery shopping. Since arriving here we have been trying to figure out these Italian walking, cycling and riding maps on the side of the roads. They connect all the villages primarily by way of the Via Franchettica, the old pilgrimage route to Rome. Well today we finally did and walked for an hour each way on the way to the castle Radofincia. Later on we spent the afternoon at the spa in San Casciano, very nice. The spa site dates to Roman times.
May 13/04: Thursday woke to threatening skies and so we decided to head south to Civita di Bagnoregio & Orvieto. Civita was a perfect small hill town sitting on a tufa mound joined only by a narrow bridge. It has been inhabited forever and was on the road to Rome. The tour books all emphasized this and I can only think "all roads lead to Rome". We spent a couple of hours and I have some great pictures. Off to Orvieto missed the parking lot so drove through town, what a hoot, passed the Domuo, the tourists an d the surprised Italians. We did the walk, the Domuo, lunch, a City Museum, and the underground caves. Back to Il Poggio and a wonderful meal at the restaurant.
May 14/04: Woke to brilliant sunshine, we had decided to hang around Poggio and get ready for our move to Umbria tomorrow. Decided at about eleven to walk one of the Italia marked trails. We walked for 3 hours and made to Orcia River, Jill didn't want to go further as we just didn't know where we were headed. I had lunch at Poggio, napped and then partied with the James's. Dinner with Jill at the Osteria. Later we sat outside and enjoyed the night. Had a scotch with Michael and learned how to play Italian billiards.
May 15/04: Travel day to Assisi, decided to go overland and skip the freeway. Stopped in Citta Della Pinta where it was market day. Another beautiful Italian hilltop town. There is so much common market money being spent in Italy, virtually every town has a crane or two rebuilding heritage sites. This one was no different. Jill bought a chemise at the market, she should have bought two. Arrived in Carpe Diem right on time, but today registration is at 3 not 2. Well let’s get some groceries in Gualdo Tadino, it is over 25kms away. Oh well had an hour to kill and it was a very scenic drive. Found a Co-op bought our goods and headed back over the mountains. Settled in our unit by 4:30, and off for exploration walk. Everything in order, great supper provided by Jill and off to bed.
May 16/04: It's now Sunday of our 3rd week. Off to Assisi today by timeshare shuttle. As usual we did all the churches, castles, streets, shops, alleys there was to do in 7 hours. The Basilica of St. Francis is outstanding. Being Sunday we took in the 11 mass. When the choir sang the Mozart Ave Velum we both just about cried it was so beautiful. There is a big celebration this week starting Wednesday as it is the 750 anniversary of the founding of the Franciscan order.
May 17/04: Hard to believe it's Monday, in a week's time we will be packing up and heading home. Today we did Spoleto, which was recommended to us by Stewart. Jill and I enjoyed it very much; it had a feel that was different from any other hill town city. Back to Assisi and a walk through town that was totally enjoyable as the Sunday crowd had moved on.
May 18/04: We decided to return the car to Perugia today as we won't need it anymore. Incredible navigation drove right to Europecar, all done by 11. Decided to take a look while we were there, don't get picked up in Assisi till 5. Jill and I both liked it, spacious Main Square, Wide Street, nice shops great for people watching. Had a wonderful lunch which was recommended by a local merchant. Headed down to train station for the return trip to Carpe Diem. Just missed the train so we decided to buy our tickets for Friday to Cinq Terra. We were told there will be a strike so we will travel Thursday. Starting our journey back to Victoria. Off to Rome sightseeing tomorrow.
May 19/04: The word unbelievable best describes our trip to Rome. Off by 7:30 and then after one bio-break we in Rome joining the queue the Vatican Museum, two hours later after visiting the Sistine Chapel we were delivered to St. Peters Square. We couldn't go into St. Peters because the Pope was conducting a mass wedding and a band was playing from his home town in Poland. We got to see the Pope in the pope mobile from 50 meters.
Off now to an overlook of Rome, then to a walkabout through Forum and the Coliseum, past the monument to Victorrio Emmanuel. The first King to unite Italy after Napoleon with the help of Garibaldi. To the Pantheon, a fountain, the Tivoli fountain and finally the Spanish steps and shopping district. Back to Assisi by 9pm, dinner & bed, traveling to Cing Terre tomorrow and a little hike.
May 20/04: So up early, pack up, breakfast in our room, leave the extras & off to catch the shuttle to Assisi station. All connections worked out perfectly except we were held up for an hour outside of Pisa. The strike was called off! So on to La Spezzia, stored our gear, bought our passes & on to Riomaggiore. The place was full, we got lucky & got the last room, it was up 100 stairs, was tiny, but had a balcony that overlooked the ocean & the town. Had a great meal out, a bottle of wine & off to bed, really looking forward to the walk.
May 21/04: It's Friday morning beautiful day for a walk and we doddled along, through all the little seaside towns. Jill was particularly amazed at the number of trekkers on the trail. I asked at one of the ranger stations and they estimated over 3,000 people were on the trail that day. Surprise to us that it was Ascension Day a holiday in most of Europe, but not Italy. In that it fell on a Friday it was a three-day weekend. The Cinq Terre was overrun by French, Germans, and Swiss. At about 2 pm in Vernazza the awful truth sunk in without a reservation we were not spending another night on the trail. For good measure we carried on to Monterrosso, and Levanto before catching the train back to La Spezzia. We managed to find a room for the night, the last one in this town and all of this area of Italy. We had a good ramble around, pizza and off to bed, we had to wear our ear plugs as we were right over the train station and service road.
May 22/04: On Saturday morning we both agreed that we would book the room for another night and catch the train to Milan on Sunday. Not thinking we couldn't get a room we bough our tickets, picked-up our bags, re-packed and then asked if we could have the room for another night. Finito was the answer. For good measure we checked a number of other hotels in the area, all full. Lucky for us there is bed for us in Milan. So on to the train after two hours shopping with shoes for Jill and sweaters for me.
Arrived in Milan at 3 stored all our bags, called Alessia and arranged a 6 pm pick-up. Jill and I shopped the market, watched the strollers from the Cin Cin bar while we had lunch and a drink. Carla and Sergio were there to pick us up right a 6, then on to their home, fabulous meal, lots of talking and to bed. We really didn't want to spend any more time here but circumstances dictated this change in our plans. First the train strike and then the holiday crowds.
May 23/04: My goodness here it is Sunday in Arese. Helped Sergio repair the lawn umbrella with an aluminum splint. In the afternoon we drove to Bergamo, another gorgeous Italian hilltop town. We spent the afternoon walking the cobblestone street and just when you think you can't look at another Doumo, here is one different than all the others. Late dinner and to bed talking to Jill about our amazing Italian vacation.
May 24/04: Monday morning, Jill and I agreed to make a Canadian dinner tonight. So it's off to market, the meal will be barbecued chicken, asparagus, red potatoes, salad, and fruit salad. It was fun shopping together and planning the meal. In the afternoon I read and Jill went to Milan shopping with Carla. Dinner was a great success, Carla gave us some going home gifts, we drank so Limon cello and off to bed with a tear in our eyes, last night in Italy. Tomorrow we will be back at home in Victoria back to the daily routine.
May 25/04: Heading home and this will be an ordeal. Up at 6:30, Sergio drove us to the Linate airport, after a breakfast of brioche and coffee. It took an hour to go 15 km, good thing we left early. The connections were great, got into TO for our 3-hour lay over. Heard the announcement for Vancouver, checked to see if there was room, and there was, we will be getting home two hours earlier, don't forget to call Jena!
