France
April 27 Here we go again. This time Jill and I are on an adventure to France. We are very fortunate to have been asked by friends the Clinton-Bakers to house sit there apartment in St. Germain en Laye. It is a superb of Paris, about 1/2 hour away by train. From there we will visit Jill’s sister Beth in Macon for a week. Our last two weeks will be at timeshares in San Raphael and Perpignan. Finally ending up in Paris for two nights, we get back to Victoria on May 30th.
April 28 The KLM flight was smooth, on time and had great service with plenty of food and wine.
The transfer from Amsterdam to Paris was short and here we are. All of the tour books said to get tickets for the Metro. Not one told of our first adventure. It took us an hour to figure out the ticket machines.
There were huge line-ups, we needed coins, and our two tickets 21E exceeded the machine maximum of 15E. So after finding the English button and buying one ticket at a time we were on our way to St. Germaine en Laye our home for the first week of our holidays.
To get from the Metro to the house we took a taxi another 8E, we didn't feel like figuring out the bus system just yet. Our accommodation is perfect thank you David and Patti. We walked into the Bel Air area of SG and picked up a bottle of wine, some bread, cheese and fruit. Ate a light meal and walked then into SG proper about a half hour.
We had decided to walk thru town to the Chateau to see the overlook. It was worth the time. From the viewpoint you looked over the Seine, to the financial district to the Eiffel tower, fantastic!
April 29 It is market day in SG so we are off to town on foot. Stopped for café and then on to the fantastic market. It had been erected on Thursday night and was just packed with fish, meat, fruit, vegetable and ware vendors all doing a brisk business. Not satisfied to just see the market we headed off to explore more of SG. We headed to the second train station, on through the forest, past the Lycee International School and back to PandD's house. Beautiful houses, countryside, and people. After dinner we walked in a new direction to Forqueaux, the estate homes here are unbelievable, the average price must be 500,000E.
April 30 Today with Ben and Syla (the lab) we are going to visit Versailles. We just missed the 10 am bus so it is off to Paris by Metro, three trains and two tickets later we are at Versailles. It is so huge 2200 acres, tour book says take two days to view, we took an afternoon and we very satisfied. Fortunately the water fountains set to music started at 3 so after our picnic lunch we wandered from water show to water show. My favorites were the grotto of Apollo and the Italian fountain. All fountains are run by water stored in the castle and then released so the fountains are hydraulic. It takes an hour and a half for the water show. We were able to catch the bus back to SG. What a day!
May 1 Today is Labour Day; everything is closed including the Louvre which was to have been our destination. We plan to go to Paris and see the May Day parades.
Well we didn't see any May Day parades, but we did walk from the Arc de Triumph to the Bastille. The boulevard's are so fantastic, the scale of the buildings and so many people enjoying the weather, the wine and each other.
We left at noon and got back at seven, this was just a taste of Paris, and we are going back, now that we have the lay of the land and sort of figured out the public transportation. Ben (PandD's) middle son has been invaluable in showing us the ropes. Thanks Ben!
May 2nd Hard to believe but Jill and I slept in till 10. This was a stay at home late breakfast and early lunch then off to the Seine below St. G. We saw lots of river, two swans and lots of boats going downriver, none going up, tide who knows?
This was a great day very relaxing just passing time.
May 3rd This is the day we are to meet John and Shannon from Victoria at Rodin's Museum. We got an early start, on the bus by 8, then the RER. We were right on schedule until we were informed that there were problems with a train at the Charles DeGaulle station. We all had to get off and find our way to town. We were at La'Defense, the new business district.
Can't say how glad we were to take this impromptu tour. The Arche's was overwhelming in its completion and all of the art, fountains and avenues mirrored the scale and grandeur of old Paris.
On to the no. 6 metro to the Trocedero stop, this offers a breath taking view of the Eiffel tour. Walking down the Parc de Marches and looking back at the tower was truly magical. We were late for our 10 am meeting so we hustled by the Invalides and on to Rodin. Paid our 3e and waited for a few minutes for J and S. They had gotten to the museum a little ahead of us. We did meet and planned to have lunch in that it was Tuesday and John and I would normally be having lunch that day.
Rodin was marvelous the sculptures, finishing and detail all in one place. The Museum is housed in the Biron Hotel. After Rodin we wandered through the Latin district on the Blvd. St. Germain, looking for the "La Chein Fume". Never did find the "smoking dog" one of the oldest bistros’s in Paris, but did find a great place in the shadow of the Musee D'Orsay.
After lunch JandS headed to the Louvre to meet their kids and JandT headed to D'Orsay. The lines were too long for JandT so we headed to the Luxembourg gardens, around the Pantheon, it started to pour, so we had a long café crème and then headed on down to Place d'Italie to meet JandS at their apartment for dinner at 7.
Shannon had made bouillabaisse, salad and fraise au chocolat. Three bottles of wine later we were on our way back to SG. What no bus so we trekked the 1/2 hour home in pouring rain. Thank heavens for gortex!
May 4 The plan today is to strike out for Paris a little later in the morning so to avoid rush hour. Off to the right bank Montmarte district and Sacre Coeur. Another grand day of stairs, shops, churches and people watching. Jill especially liked the fabric area, and Hermes, where were tailed by the security guy right around the store.
Home for dinner with Ben. The real big news is that we have now added the local bus route to our store of French public transport.
Ben and I watched Misty River, then off to bed at 12. Long day must find some way to slow Jill down.
May 5 Jill and I hung around SG today. Walked over to the terrace, and along its 2km length, ambled back through the forest. We picked up dinner and were hone in time to see Ben off on his trip to Paris. We are in charge of Syla in no time at all she is under the fence and playing with two girls in park. They brought her back, but just like that she was back through the fence. Have to David about this!
May 6 Still in charge of Syla, we aren't going far today. So we waited until David, Patti, Sarah, Gordie, and Bev got home around 6. Got to read, get my diary up to date and take care of dog. Jill and I had made one good decision today and that was to go to Paris for two nights. We feel as though we haven't really done Paris. We had a great dinner with the gang and off to bed early.
May 7 Up to a grey and overcast sky wind blowing. After breakfast David drove us to the RER. Into Paris and checked into the Hotel Denevers by noon.
Now it's off for a walk and walk we did. Our first objective was the Picasso Museum, what a treat. He was such a prolific artist in so many mediums. We had a great lunch at a hole in the wall restaurant. The best meal out to date.
Then we walked maybe a total of 14 km this day. Re-visiting sites we had rushed by earlier in our visits. Notre Dame, Deportation, Monterguille, St Eustace.
In the evening we took in a Bach performance at St Chapelle, better known for its gorgeous stain glass windows. We arrived just as the sun was setting and the baritone was singing Cantata 82 accompanied by harpsichord, cello, viola 2 violins, and oboe. It was magical.
May 8 Up early to another beautiful day in Paris. We decided today to take the Bateaux boat along the Seine. For 11E each we got to ride from 10-10. We started at St Germain de Pre and went to the Eiffel tour again. Walking to Rue de Cler, which is a market street and flea market. We bought lunch from the vendors and some snacks. Getting back on the boat we continued on the Ville d'Hotel and got lost heading back to our hotel. We finally figured out we were heading to Sacre Cur, when the most amazing thing happened. The streets were closed and thousands of roller bladders passed, they just kept going by forever. It was getting late so we had a beer sitting on the street watching Paris walk by.
That night we went out for dinner at the Lebanese restaurant across the street from the hotel.
May 9 Up early to catch the TGV to Macon, and to meet Beth. Great trip 1 1/2 hours flying low. Beth was there to meet us and whisked us off to La Roche Vineuse and her home for the last 4 months.
Jill and Beth went for a long walk while I had a snooze. When I awoke the boys were home from there day at school.
It was great to see the boys, Mathias and Anders my how they have grown!
We had a great family dinner and off to bed early.
May 10 Up early to see the boys off to school, they are going to have lunch at the canteen so we can go exploring with Beth and Tybring.
We head off through fields of Charolois, forests and vineyards of chardonnay and Gamay grapes. We are in the Burgundy are famous for its Pouilly-Fuisse, Gamay and Pinot Noir cru.
Our first destination Parais le Monial is famous for its frescos. This abbey was developed as a retreat for the bishops of Cluny. The frescos are believed to have been pained at the time of Cluny III. The cathedral was under restoration so we could not see it in its entirety. This is an interesting destination as Saint Marguirite; the nun famous for Sacre Coeur in Paris is revered.
After viewing the church and cloister we had lunch on the canal.
Now we are off driving on the canal to Semur de Brionnais the birth place of St. Hugues the founder of Cluny. It is the location of the oldest castle in Burgundy. It is named Saint Hugues Castle but predates his birth date.
We had an amazing walk about the medieval wall, the church, museum and the castle itself. Which has had a history of dark ages, medieval, and has been twice used as a prison?
Back home, picked up the boys, great dinner, game off sorry and off to bed.
May 11 Up early showered and breakie while Band T take care of the boys. They don't go to school Wednesday, but do go Saturday mornings.
Jill and I head off to Milly Lamartine, the birthplace of Lamartine the poet and French philosopher. We saw a squirrel, two hares, a hawk, and of course the usual assortment of cows, sheep and horses. From Milly we headed by way of the Sentien walking trails to the Berez Abbey.
This abbey is also very old and important, because St. Hugue used it as a retreat. The Fresco's are as old as Cluny I. The walk through the vineyards was great. The woman who ran the interpretive center offered us a ride back to Beth's, we accepted of course.
In the afternoon we did email and took in Mathias soccer practice, it was fun. That evening we went for a tasting at a winery owned by friends of BandT Alain Normand. It was fun and we came away with 8 bottles of excellent organic estate bottled wine.
We had the Macon Chardonnay with dinner.
May 12 The boys didn't want to eat lunch at the cantine today, they had checked the menu, but it didn't appeal. So we were driven to Cluny home of the largest church before St. Peters in Rome was built. We toured the grounds and abbey, it was very impressive. Heading for home at about 1 we trekked 12Km's back to Roche Vinuese along the bike route. We got in at about four with rest stops. It was quite a walk!
May 13 Up and off early today we are exploring the Beaujolais area of Burgundy. We did tastings in a church now a winery in Julienas are very sinewy wine, then had lunch and wine Chiroubles great country lunch, and finally Morgon where our tasting was in a Chateau.
That evening Tybring and I went off for beer and pool while Jill taught one of the locals the fine art of quilting. Watch for Jill's article in Quilt Canada.
May 14 Boys off to school, J and I slept in. Today was a slow day as Mathias had a soccer game in the afternoon. It was great to see him play with his team and they won with Mathias contributing most of the scoring.
On the way home we discovered a country fair in Lugny. It was so much fun! You paid 2E for a wine glass and then tasted over a dozen wineries. There were wine tasting games, egg toss, pony rides and lots of prizes. We enjoyed a local ice wine and a very different wine from Jura. It is aged 6 years in the cask and had the flavor of brandy. Our prize was a bottle of Rose wine from Jura and a Lugny white.
Home for a great final because tomorrow we are off to St. Raphael to Provance and the Cotes d'Azur.
May 15 Up and away to the train weather sunny and warm with promises of warmer weather on the coast. So far we have only had a couple of days of great weather. Most days have been cold with rain almost every day.
We didn't realize there were two train stations the one we wanted was in Macon Ville. So Tybs defied the law and flew low to get us to our departure with two minutes to spare.
We saw Lyonne, Avignon and Marseille from the train and arrived in St. Raphael at exactly 3:07 just like the ticket said.
Warm and sunny we walked the 2Kms to the resort and were a little disappointed, no view except of the highway and the TVG hopefully we won't spend too much time here.
Went out for patise and beers and watched the stroll.
May 16 Up by 9, breakfast on the deck and then off to Frejus on foot. We stopped at the info in SR and were told it was too far to walk. They don't know Jill and me!
Well we made just as it started to pour. Luckily we waited it out under an overhang. Off to explore the old town, Frejus was an important port during Roman times and has had occupation since Julius Caesar about 49BC. We viewed the baths, arena, theatre and church all important ruins.
Walking back to SR we stopped for beer and pastis and watched the world wander by.
May 17 Today we are walking the sentier lattoriel from Santa Lucia to Cap Drumont. It is about 8 kms and should take 3 hours.
It is a beautiful hike up and around red rocks into sandy coves and past fantastic villas.
There is a storm brewing and the wind is blowing the walk ends at I'sle d'Or and the monument to the US Army who landed here in August of 1944.
We caught the local bus back at about 4pm. It started to pour as we got to our hotel. We waited out and then found a pizza vendor standing in his booth just waiting for us to drop by.
May 18 Up early this morning and headed west of the seaside trail. The waves were spectacular. There had been a large low over the mediterrenean which was the cause of the rain.
When we got around to Santa Lucia there was a fleet of 25 mini offshore racers. It turned out that they were racing 500 miles non-stop from Spain, around the Lions and back. This is the same boat that is raced single handed across the Atlantic in qualifying for the Vendee. They had to put ashore because of the low.
We then headed to old town and the maritime museum. The main attraction being amphora from a Roman trader sunk off SR. In addition there was a very interesting display of paeleontology covering 200,000 years of human inhabitation.
Down to the beach for sun and a swim. Great relaxing day.
May 19 Off to Cannes today by train, 1/2 hour away.
It was indescribable! The attire, the tuxes, the limo's, the papparatzzi, the people.
We had lunch at the Carlton on the beach with the movie moguls. Too expensive for words, but the sights!
Headed up to old town to get an overview of the spectacle, worth the hike.
Back to the main festival stage to watch the stars attend the evening’s gala. Got back to SR in time to catch a youth orchestra playing in the Notre Dame cathedral. The played Mendolsen, Tchaikovsky, Edgar, and Rutter's Gloria with a local choir.
A perfect ending to an amazing day.
May 20 Last day in SR we were woken up at 2am by our neighbours even through our ear plugs. We wrote them a polite note asking them to keep the frolicking down to a murmur.
Back to SR our for one last look around. Back to old town to the two markets one permanent and one twice weekly.
We had lunch at a coffee bar, great salads for 6e. Headed back to our suite at about 6. Then off to dinner at SL. Everyone says you should have the menu, so we did. Too much quickly prepared food, really not very French at all.
May 21 Today we spent the whole day on the train to get to our final stop in Perpignan. Good trip a little tired when we got in. Great condo, funny location, Malibu in France.
May 22 Woke up in Canet, had a great sleep. Went down to reception and received our welcome package. It was full of useful information about Rusillion.
After trying to come to grips with how we were going to spend our last week in France. Car, bus, train, tour, and bike it was hard. So it's one tour, three day car rental, and a couple of local bus trips.
With that over we could discover Canet en Plage by foot. It is miles of long sandy beaches with American names and cheap restaurants. We won't be heading down to the beach again in a big hurry.
May 23 Took the city bus to town to see if we could catch the train to Villefrance and then on the narrow gauge train through the mountains. We had missed it; it takes three hours each way.
So we took the free city bus around Perpignan. What a beautiful city, a canal and a river the Tet running through it, a great medieval town, and a wonderful citadel built by Louis the IV.
May 24 Off to Carcassone today by mini van with 6 couples from GB and 1 from Mexico. There was to have been 2 more couples but they slept in.
Carcassone is one of the few complete medieval cities remaining in France. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and is a must see on everyone’s lists.
It is very impressive huge stone inner and outer walls with over 30 turrets. Once inside you are impressed with the size and scale of the town, but not the overt touristy nature. There are about 250 people who still reside inside the walls.
From here we traveled through the hills to Limoux where it is claimed bubbly white wine was discovered, called Blanchet by some wayward monks in 1240.
0ur final destination was the Gorges of Galamus. This was a stunning location and the head of the river l'Agay. The road was one way and just big enough for our van to clear.
This evening we partook in a Catalan dinner. It was delicious!
May 25 In to Perpignan to pick up a car. Seems funny to be driving after almost three weeks of avoiding the wheel.
We took a coastal trip down to the Spanish boarder and back through Elne.
The Cote Vermeille is lovely, vineyards and olive groves sweeping down to the sea. Colliours is a beautiful seaside town and once the port city for Perpignan. There is a windmill built originally in the 1200 still used for pressing the olives.
Elne has a very old Cloister made of marble and a long history of inhabitation.
May 26 One of the side trips Jill and I have been planning is to Tautavel. In 1971 the Arago cave was discovered and excavation began. One of Europe’s oldest skulls was found here in 1989 dating over 450,000 years.
The museum was worth the visit, as was the hike up to the cave mouth. From Tautavel we drove to a high lookout over the Rousilliion plane, mountains, and Mediterrenean.
Our final stop was the Fortress of Salse. Built in 1498 to protect the Spanish border from the French. The fortress was sieged three times, but never captured. It was lost in the Pyrenees Treaty which gave the Catalan area to France.
May 27 I went for a swim this morning at the outdoor Olympic pool, only did 10 lengths - 500 meters felt good. It was a surprise to me to see the women swimming topless. Oh well it is France.
Off for a drive through the surrounding villages, the best was Canet en Rousillion our local town. It was last on the list and we spent an hour looking around. According to some of our travel books their is a Roman coliseum, we couldn't find it.
Warm today but huge wind called the Tarantalle, kept us off the beaches.
May 28 Back to Paris today again by train a 5 hour trip starting at 7am, first return the car.
Beautiful warm day in Paris, into shorts for me and skirt for Jill and off on one of our rambling walks.
Finally took bus 69 it takes by and through many of Paris's most famous sites, Louvre, D'Orsay, St. Germain, Eiffel Tower, Cite, etc.
Had a great dinner in a little bistro, wonderful Morgon wine.
May 29 Final day in France and what better place to spend it than Paris.
Heading off to the Opera, which where we managed to catch a matinee of The Clemency of Titus. This was Mozart's last opera he died within 3 months of completing this work.
It was a contemporary setting with an amazing set, sterling costumes and wonderful performers, chorus and orchestra.
May 30 Up at 5:30 to catch the Metro, RER and 3 planes home to Victoria. If everything goes according to plan we will be home by 2pm, 18 hours after wake-up.
